FAQ’s about the 1" and 1/2" float valves. (Item numbers 23155, 23156, 23097, &23098)

Q. How do the 1" and 1/2" float valves work?

A. The valve operates using a float and a control diaphragm chamber. When hooked up to a water source, the valve will allow water to flow through it until the water reaches the bottom of the valve. As the water level rises, it causes the float inside of the valve to rise, allowing the diaphragm chamber to fill and close the valve

Q. What type of tubing/pipe should I use to install my float Valve?

A

• Make sure that your tubing/pipe is of an adequate size:
• For the 1/2" Valve – no smaller than 1/4" and no bigger than 1"
• For the 1" Valve – no smaller than 1/2" and no bigger than 2"

Q. How do I install my float valve?

A.

• Do not use pipe compound.
• Use plumber's Teflon® tape on threads of the water supply pipe.
• Screw valve onto water supply pipe; hand tighten only.
• Turn the water source on to full volume.
• Make sure the valve is mounted stably – the valve will not work if it is not secure.
• The valve cannot be submerged.
• The valve must be mounted vertically.

Q. Where will the valve shut off?

A.

• The valve will shut off about 1-1/2" - 2" up from the bottom of the valve, depending on the pressure (the higher your water pressure, the higher up on the valve, the water will shut off).
• NOTE: there will be a short delay in shut-off the first time the valve is used while the control chamber fills with water.

Q. Will my valve work in liquids other than water?

A.

• This valve is designed for water use.
• We only recommend using it in water.
• We will only warranty valves used in water.
• This is not to say that the valve will not work in other liquids. We have customers that use it in a variety of liquids, but we have not tested it in anything other than water and thus cannot recommend its usage with any other liquids.
• We know the valve will not work with salt water as the supply source.

Q. Why won't my valve shut off?

A. The valve needs to be cleaned periodically depending on the cleanliness of the water source. Wash the valve and valve parts with fresh water. Dirt, rust, sediment, and sand can build up on the valve and cause it to malfunction. The valve has two very important holes running through its center. The valve will not shut off if either of these holes becomes clogged. To check the holes take the valve apart:

• Remove the strainer cap from the stem of the diaphragm.
• Hold the diaphragm up to the light and ensure that the hole that runs through the body of the stem is free and clear.
• Drop the float out of the body of the valve. To do this, turn the valve upside down. Use a flathead screwdriver and gently push down and out on the clip.
• Hold the body up to the light and ensure that the hole that runs through the valve's body is free and clear.
• If either of these holes is clogged, flush it out with water or use a small needle to help clear the hole. Do not force any object into either hole, as the valve will not work if the hole size is altered.
• Check to make sure that you have adequate flow. The valve has to have more than a trickle of water coming to it to get it to shut off. If you have less than 10 psi of water pressure, your valve may not get enough flow to make it seal.
• Make sure your water source is turned on at full volume.
• Make sure that your tubing/pipe is of an adequate size:
• For the 1/2" Valve – no smaller than 1/4" and no bigger than 1"
• For the 1" Valve – no smaller than 1/2" and no bigger than 2"
• Make sure that all parts are installed correctly.
• The screen is installed from the top of the cap.
• The diaphragm "skirt" sits in the groves of the valve's body.
• The retainer ring sits on the diaphragm, with the flat side up.
• The float has free movement in the body of the valve (using your fingers, gently push the float up and let it drop back down – it should move up and down freely about 1/8".
• Do not glue any parts together
• Use Teflon tape only – do not use other products to install the valve.
• If you are using a 1/2" valve, try removing the screen. Because there is less area in the 1/2" valve between the cap and the diaphragm than there is in the 1" valve, the screen on the 1/2" sometimes will restrict the movement of the diaphragm. Not using a screen will not affect the performance of the valve. The screen is only needed to help filter out debris. If your water source is clean, it is not needed.

Q. Why won't my float valve open?

A.

• The insert in the valve's body may be clogged. To check this, remove the cap from the top of the valve. Remove the diaphragm and retainer ring. Turn over the valve, remove the clip (you can use a flathead screwdriver and gently push down and out to do this), and drop float out of the valve's body.
• Hold the valve up to the light and look through the metal insert in the body's center. If it is clogged, flush it out with water. If this doesn't clear the insert, use a small needle to push the debris out gently. Then flush with water again to clean.
• There isn't enough water flow coming to the valve. Your water source must be turned on at full volume. We recommend having at least 8 lbs of pressure.

Q. How do I repair my float valve?

A. If none of the following suggestions work, a repair kit will be needed. Hudson Valve and many of our distributors sell repair kits containing all of the internal parts of the valve. Please refer to our products page to learn more about repair kits.

• First, try taking the valve apart and cleaning all parts and the body of the valve in clean water.
• Check the hole in the body of the valve. The valve has two very important holes running through its center. If either of these holes becomes clogged, the valve will not shut off.
• To check the holes take the valve apart.
• Remove the strainer cap from the stem of the diaphragm. Hold the diaphragm up to the light and ensure that the hole that runs through the body of the stem is free and clear.
• Drop the float out of the body of the valve. To do this, turn the valve upside down. Use a flathead screwdriver and gently push down and out on the clip. 
• Hold the body up to the light and ensure that the hole that runs through the valve's body is free and clear. 
• If either of these holes is clogged, flush it out with water or use a small needle to help clear the hole. Do not force any object into either hole, as the valve will not work if the hole size is altered.
• Check the shut-off pad located on the top of the float (part P07) for any indentations or tears. If it looks dented or torn, try turning it over. You can gently slip it out of its base using a small needle. Then flip it over and push it gently back in using your finger.
• Do NOT glue, hammer, or alter the valve or valve parts in any way. Doing any of this will nullify your warranty.

Q. After I install the valve, what do I do if I hear water hammer or other noise in my line?

A. The water hammer can be caused by too much pressure build-up behind the valve. Under high-pressure conditions, installing a pressure-reducing valve before the Hudson Valve may alleviate the problem.